Moderator’s Note: With this blog, we re-initiate a series of contributions by students in my University of Washington courses. This contribution is from a student in my Chicano Studies 498a Special Topics seminar, “Food Sovereignty Movements in Mexico and the United States.” The posting was prepared by Steve M. Sullivan-Zárate, Esq. and is a fascinating reflection on the possible opposition/contradiction between “food freedom” (a.k.a. consumer freedom of choice) and “food justice” (the abolition of hunger and the provision of adequate, nutritious, and culturally appropriate food).
“In Poor Taste”
A Glorious and Belligerent Treatise from the Age of Deep-Fried Consciousness
By Steve M. Sullivan-Zárate, Esq.
In favor of discourse surrounding buzzwords such as shade-grown, sustainable, slow-food, deep-food, fair-trade, seasonal, local, equitable, organic, and whatever else, a commonly overlooked topic in the dialogue surrounding food justice are the matters of convenience and taste. We can talk all we want about eating locally, sustainably, organically, equitably, and so forth, but when all’s said and done, when people have a choice about what they eat, there is always the risk that people will choose based on taste, convenience and comfort instead of the environmental or socio-cultural impacts. With this writing I would like to explore the paradox of Food Freedom and Food Justice.
It would probably behoove me greatly to begin by defining the key terms. After all, one hears the word Justice thrown around with the same impunity as the word Freedom. They’re often even used in collaboration, as though they are but two complementary flavors inhabiting the same delicious candy bar, arm-in-arm in the revolutionary struggle of peanut butter and chocolate. “Freedom and Justice for all”. To complicate the common, simplistic and unexamined definitions of Freedom and Justice, Albert Camus once famously said: “Absolute Justice is achieved by the suppression of all contradiction; therefore it destroys Freedom”.
This phrase seems to suggest a contrary interpretation; that instead of and far from being collaborative ideals, they are in fact, in their purest forms, actually in direct opposition to each other. Absolute Justice would mean that there really is “one correct way” whereas Absolute Freedom would mean the complete absence of taboo - every path open, just as valid as the next. “Every/any way” vs. “One way / the right way”. Freedom vs. Justice.
Humans naturally crave certain, specific tastes- sweet, salt, spice, and fat. This inclination wouldn’t normally be a problem except that we’ve ceased to eat food opportunistically like every other member of the community of life. Naturally, we would only very rarely come across enough sugar, salt, spice, or fat to pose a particularly grave threat to our health. The urge was always there throughout our evolution exactly because those foods were so scarce but we do need a certain amount of them in our diet. After the advent of intensive food production (which operates on the premise that all food is ultimately human food and is often referred to as “Totalitarian Agriculture”), we suddenly had access to huge quantities of foods that were cultivated to satisfy our hereditary urges for certain tastes. When you get right down to it, there are really good reasons for both why people eat at fast food restaurants or munch candy bars, and why the sale of fast/junk food is so obviously successful. Reasons that have nothing whatsoever to do with economics...It’s convenient and tastes good. Nevermind that comfortable foods are harmful on any number of levels, they are not only cheap and convenient, but they also happily satisfy the tastes that we crave- sweet, salt, spice, and fat. Herein lies the problem of Freedom vs. Justice.
Consumer-citizens of dominant culture the world over (but especially Americans) have to choose between eating something because it’s seasonal, organic, healthy, etc..., or to eat something that they know comforts them, tastes very good, is quick and ready, and satisfies their evolutionary cravings. Activist groups have found themselves in the unsavory (pun intended) position of trying to argue against what tastes best to the human tongue and is most easily at hand. It’s like when parents admonish their children to eat their meticulously prepared Lima beans and Spinach “because it’s good for you” even though it tastes like... Lima beans and Spinach and you could have just thrown in a frozen pizza. In this way it could be considered Freedom to have a myriad of food options and the right to choose whichever, but it could be considered Justice to have “one right way” to eat: local, slow, deep, organic, seasonal, and all that.
And don’t mistake me and get all angry dear reader. I’m not saying that because foods are produced respectfully, they can’t taste good or be incredibly flavorful, but I AM saying that they usually don’t taste like a goddam Snicker’s bar so let’s do away with that critique right now. Junk food has a gravity all it’s own. If ice cream didn’t make you fat, have any adverse health effects, was readily accessible worldwide and could be produced respectfully/organically/sustainably/whatever, then who would eat fair-trade, shade grown, local organic broccoli instead? Come on now. And I’m a man that loves me some good steamed broccoli. The fact is that people gravitate towards quick food that meets their cravings. Heirloom squash is all well and good but people seem to like the McRib despite overwhelming reasons not to.
It’s news to me, but apparently every economist worth their salt (notably Paul Hawken, Richard Robbins, and Milton Friedman) knows that to maintain a healthy Capitalist economy it must increase annually by 3 percent. This implies three very important things to me: 1) There is an underlying assumption that infinite growth on a planet with finite resources is even possible, 2) people always need to sell more (and profit, which means selling something for more than you know it’s worth or buying for less than you know it’s worth), and 3) people always need to buy more. What happens when people are satisfied with what they have or want to live within their means? The economy falters and the entire apparatus of the dominant culture shows its fragility. In order to keep things running smoothly, businesses have created a competitive advertisement industry based entirely around carefully suggesting that people buy, suggesting that people... indulge. Like Burger King says: “Have it your way”.
Dominant culture fetishizes both consumption and Freedom, (hell, we invade other countries ostensibly just to spread the gospel), and what better way to demonstrate consumer freedom than an abundance of food choices? Even small town grocery stores have literally dozens of varieties of salad-dressing, pasta sauce, potato chips, chocolate and other products, not even counting the foods you mix and match yourself.
For a culture in which everything bends to the needs of the economic system, is it any great surprise that consumers have been fully indoctrinated into the notion that “the customer is always right”? We’re conditioned to the point that even the way we make friends and interact with other humans follows this mandate of comfort and indulgence. We can block phone numbers and online chat partners if anyone says word one with which we disagree. We can get delivery food or go through the self-checkout to avoid any possibly uncomfortable social interaction. Almost everything is considered disposable. At every point the “Westernized” consumer is encouraged to act based solely on comfort, convenience and taste.
The other day I overheard someone telling a friend that: “The only thing Americans fear is inconvenience”. I thought that was an apt appraisal. The battle here is unbelievably difficult because not only is it internal and subtle, but it counters the fairy-tale logic with which we’re all familiar. The struggle isn’t between the forces of what’s good and what’s evil, but the forces of what’s good and what’s easy.
This all begs a question though; If we are trained and strongly encouraged from birth to insulate, indulge, comfort, and make exceptions for ourselves in order to spur the economic system, then what does that mean for our strategy if we care at all about Food Justice?
Clearly the utopian ideal would be to convince every man, woman and child the world over to personally and moreover, voluntarily become comfortable with discomfort/inconvenience, and resolve to eat a certain way because it’s more Just, but it would be more than a little naïve to bank on that kind of worldwide, individualistic transformation.
At some point we have to bring up the effects of a Capitalist economy. At some point we have to acknowledge the unsustainability of the current system of food production. Certainly at some point we must address the fact that any FORCED change towards eating with deliberation and respect, will leave many people feeling mightily displeased by the limitations on their eating habits and resentful of those who forced the change. It might even result in backlash. Asking people to adopt what’s essentially an entirely new lifestyle is a tricky proposition. Is the plan just “wait for collapse” or is it still “wait for the universally voluntary transformation to a better lifestyle”? Could change take the form of a cultural shift in the way we view and interact with the world? If so, could that culture-shift withstand the mechanism of economy that already ruthlessly put down so many other, more firmly established cultures?
All of these are big questions, I know... but I keep coming back to that quote by Camus. If Freedom and Justice are indeed at opposite ends of the spectrum, then perhaps, like so many things in the world right now, they’re out of balance. Perhaps we need more Justice for our Food. It’s one thing to diagnose a problem, it’s entirely another to treat it.